Dispatches from Fall '11

A Taste of Capsule

The best of New York's upstart men's trade show.

CXXVI's collection of blades and jewelry.

While the eyes of the menswear world are trained on Milan and Paris, right here at home the Capsule trade show is well underway. The show has grown from a fairly intimate affair on the Lower East Side to a tri-city tour (New York, Paris, Las Vegas) of the most pertinent brands of the moment.

Diemme’s signature mountaineering boot got a dose of blaze orange via chunky laces. A look we wholeheartedly endorse (more on that later this week).

Diemme's Italian Mountaineering boot.

Orange: A point of emphasis throughout Capsule.

Alpine climbing at night is now safer.

Yuketen, displayed below, came in with a thick sole (a trend we saw again and again, in a good way) and a Goodyear welt.

Thick soles and green: overriding Capsule themes.

Yuketen's moccasin boot.

Newcomer Fischer, based in Brooklyn, manufactured each piece in their second collection in Manhattan; this striped vest was a highlight from its promising, and disarmingly nice, designer Kristina Angelozzi.

Fischer plays with desert tones.

The Southern California-based Riviera Club got collab happy for fall, linking with Stetson on a series of hats that remain somewhat of a mystery for now. Below, a little taste. Also, hybrid sweater action: shawl collar, single toggle, a touch of Fair Isle.

A worthy joint venture.

The hybrid shawl, fair isle duffel sweater.

A few weeks back, Gilded Age designer Stefan Miljanic gave us the scoop on his exhaustive production processes. Now behold the fruits of his team’s labor.

Gilded Age: Painstakingly distressed.

Yuki Matsuda and Ryan Keenan, the design team behind Monitaly (and Yuketen, for good measure) didn’t waste any of their surplus wool tweed, forming suits, vests, and ties in a variety of chunky weights.

A tweed-necked man of Monitaly.

The line's full offering of heavy wool bow ties.

Neckwear cut from your favorite Monitaly coat fabric.

Grenson made its first Capsule appearance. Of note were these hybrid brogues that combine two disparate elements of the brand’s historic footwear.

The updated classic Grenson brogue.

Grenson's brogue boot gets a lift.

Industry of Nations is based in L.A. but produces pieces in its country of expertise, Mexico. This season much of the collection was made south of the border, like these shoes traditionally worn to boys’ first Communion ceremonies. We’ll take them and their wood soles to be alternative takes on black-tie footwear.

Patent leather shoes by Industry of Nations.

Lunettes Kollektion is a Berlin-based brand that has traditionally been a source for rare vintage eyewear. This season they’ve rolled out their own line. Count us in for these matte black frames.

Lunettes Kollektion's debut collection.

Mark McNairy’s New Amsterdam line branched out and embraced the thick-soled theme of the show, while retaining his signature white eyelets.

McNairy reworks a classic.

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