Umit Benan showed his fourth collection ever on Sunday night in a smoky Milan hotel bar. The setting, like everything Umit does, was planned and thought out to the last detail. His collections are built around a single character and the world (and clothes) he lives in. This season’s was an American Psycho-esque ’80s-era Wall Street banker, a theme that works strikingly well with Benan’s savant-like way with a tailored garment: In some places he’s screen-printed paisleys onto shoulder-darted suiting, and in others he’s created volume without bulk. For such a character-driven collection, the Turkish-born, Milan-based designer has kept it a wearable proposition. These garments could (and should) fit into any man’s wardrobe, and make the entirety better for it. Enthusiasm, luxury, humor, and a bit of a punkish attitude are infused into everything this young man makes; it’s no surprise his star is rising in the menswear world.