Although it hasn’t officially (nor unofficially) arrived yet we’re willing the onset of spring with three crisp white wines from Breggo Cellars, in Anderson Valley, California. Breggo (meaning sheep in Boontling, a funky folk language spoken only in Anderson Valley) is a small producer–sitting on 203-acres of an old sheep ranch–that’s relatively new to the wine game, 2005 marking their inaugural vintage. With its 2009 releases, Breggo showcases the great trio of Alsatian varieties that thrive in those cool Mendocino hills: Riesling, Pinot gris, and Gewürztraminer. All complex, assertive grapes with bracing acidity, and well-matched to spicy or fatty foods. And all well-executed under the Breggo label. Our favorite, the Gewürztraminer, is also the most exotic. It’s big and intense–with a singular, spicy melon flavor and acidity–and hits the tongue with Pavlovian results. Some residual sugar does exist, but don’t balk, there’s far too much complexity in this wine to simply dismiss as “sweet.” For around $25, any of these three sheep should encourage the spring. If eccentric whites aren’t your bag, watch for Breggo’s 2009 Pinot Noir, due in March.