Something about the thimble’s worth of $18,000 Scotch we were treated to last week at Jean Georges (the new Highland Park 50-Year-Old, if you’ve got an extra salary burning a hole in your pocket) left us yearning for its opposite: real hip flask whiskey; unpretentious paper bag hooch; stuff a working man might actually drink. Like Early Times 354 Bourbon, hitting gas stations now, and yours for roughly the price of a chicken dinner. It’s the first Bourbon produced by Early Times for the US market since 1983 (Early Times Kentucky Whisky, you’ll remember, is a blend of whiskies aged in new and seasoned barrels, disqualifying it from Bourbon status). The 354 in the title refers to the Early Times distillery’s federal permit, the longest held in Kentucky. Aged only four years, it flexes typical Bourbon muscle, and it ain’t interested in subtlety. Pow goes the caramel, bang goes the sweet corn. But let’s be real: You’re not buying $16 bourbon to contemplate its bouquet. You’re buying it to drink—on ice, with Coke, however the hell you want—and forget about. Weird for that to be weird.