Dispatches from Spring '12

Miked Up in Milan

The blogger behind IsaacLikes.com documents the vibe at the shows, one Q&A at a time.
Photo: Courtesy of STREETFSN

Brad goes day-glow with Jil Sander.

Brad Goreski, stylist

What are you wearing today?
I’m wearing a Jil Sander suit and shirt and Prada shoes.

What show are you most looking forward to this week?
I’m actually really looking forward to the Burberry Prorsum show and the DSquared2 show.

What’s your fashion week wardrobe strategy?
There are no limits. I decided I would start off looking like a glow-worm and maybe I’ll tone it down a little bit but some more Jil Sander will be making a return, that’s for sure.

What’s your take on the current state of men’s fashion?
Oh my God, I feel like we’ve never been luckier. There’s so much variation out there. I feel like the designers have really found who their customers are and they’re really challenging men to dress better and to be more stylish and to take more risks.

Whats your favorite fashion week drink?
Diet Coke. Endless amounts of Diet Coke.

Photo: Courtesy of GQ

Hainey (right), with Michele Lupi and Mr. Ford at the GQ part in Milan

Michael Hainey, deputy editor, GQ

What show are you most looking forward to in Milan and in Paris?
Honestly, I look forward to them all. Burberry is great, Prada is great, in terms of the spectacle Thom Browne is always going to be a great show – he puts a lot of thought into it, so I’d say maybe Thom Browne in Paris and Prada here.

What’s your strategy for your own wardrobe during the week?
You’ve gotta come out strong, and know what you’re gonna wear, and get with what works for you. I think the last thing you wanna do is start being a victim here. I wear what I always wear.

What’s your take on the current state of menswear?
I think it’s great. I’ve been at GQ for eleven or twelve years now and I think there’s never been more style, and more interesting style, so I think it’s actually in a great place.

What shoes are you wearing?
These are Alden shoes, I think they’re a special shade of tobacco or something – I got them about 10 years ago. And the rest of the outfit? Levi’s 501 jeans, it’s a Charvet shirt, a Charvet tie and a Ralph Lauren jacket.

What’s your drink of choice for Milan and Paris?
Usually in Milan I like the la scola or a good rosé if I can find it. And in Paris, a lot of rosé as well.

Tommy Ton, photographer, JAK & JIL, GQ.com, Style.com

What show are you most looking forward to in Milan and Paris?
Milan, it’s Prada and Moncler and Paris it’s Thom Browne and Junya Watanabe.

What’s your take on the current state of men’s fashion?
What’s so great about the men’s market is that you can mix it all up. So, you can take RRL and mix it with Brunello Cucinelli or Prada. It’s very much focused on style and that’s what’s inspiring customers to shop so much more. Me definitely. Especially with the emergence of street style photos, Tumblr and curated blogs I think it’s opened a lot of guys’ eyes.

What’s your fashion week wardrobe strategy?
I usually just pack comfortably but now that I’ve brought all these clothes I should try to wear them. Beat the heat. I try to wear comfortable shoes, but today I decided to wear really flat, solid Bottega creepers. There wasn’t really a strategy, I tried to pack lightly but I ended up carrying more than I needed.

What are you wearing?
Bottega Veneta creepers, Robert Geller jeans, a Woolrich Woolen Mills tee shirt, Patrik Ervell bag and Uniqlo socks.

What’s your go-to fashion week drink?
Depending on the city, New York – Jamba Juice, Milan and Paris I wanna say water but it’s actually Coke Zero. In Paris, I also like Schweppes Citrus.

Nick Wooster, fashion consultant, Tumblr demigod

What’s your take on the current state of men’s fashion?
I think it’s a major period of transition. I feel like there’s a real interest in menswear but the business side of it hasn’t quite caught up to what the potential is for the demand for guys wanting information about how to dress and how to look stylish at any level and in any way. It’s there so it’ll be interesting to see how the business changes, and with online as a major course. It’s awesome, I think it’s a really exciting time.

How do you define your own fashion week wardrobe strategy?
Matching ties and shirts, expensive high school.

What kind of shoes are those?
These are Maude O’Keeffe.

And the rest?
Neil Barrett blazer, Bergdorf Goodman Private Label matching shirt and tie, J Crew shorts.

What’s your go-to fashion week drink here in Milan and in Paris?
Red Bull.

Aiden Andrews in Jil Sander SS12

Aiden Andrews, model

How man shows are you doing this week?
You know, I never look at my bookings. I only go day-by-day, so today I’ve got three shows, and maybe, if I’m lucky, I’ll have three shows later. I’m crossing my fingers.

Who has the best food backstage?
Raf Simons has the best food by far.

What’s your fashion week wardrobe strategy?
I think it’s more like very laid back, very casual, but not too casual you know? It’s just my style, it’s how it’s always been. Nothing too different.

What kinda shoes are those?
Converse, no laces.

What’s your fashion week drink?
For some reason this fashion week it’s been a long island iced tea.

Bryan Boy, blogger, “professional online attention whore”

Do you have a favorite runway moment so far?
Not so far, no. Menswear shows tend to be safe and commercial.

Has anyone surprised you?
Not so far, I’m waiting for Prada. Prada’s the bellwether of the season.

What’s your take on the current state of men’s fashion?
I think menswear is generally becoming more and more playful season after season, with the color and the silhouettes, and the prints and the patterns and the embellishments – Raf Simons at Jil Sander doing snakeskin and animal print, that’s extraordinary, Prada with the lurex for Fall, but it’s becoming more and more like womenswear to the point where designers are really taking more risks. I used to hate menswear with a passion because it was all about suits but now it’s kind of like designers are really pushing the boundaries.

How do you define your own fashion week wardrobe strategy?
Prada. Head to toe Prada (laughs). No I’m kidding. It’s funny, I would have never seen myself in a pair of grey wool trousers, but here I am wearing them, I’m wearing Church’s shoes, so even with myself I’ve taken a break from my usual wardrobe and I’m just trying to play with fashion – that’s the beauty of fashion you can play with so many things and if I have to play with menswear then so be it. I’m pushing the boundaries by going conservative which is really funny because I’m wearing a green lurex sweater with my green socks and my brown shoes. I’m wearing all menswear things but on me it still looks like womenswear.

What’s your go to drink?
A bottle of Evian with my Berocca in it.

Godfrey Deeny, men’s fashion critic The Financial Times

Do you have a favorite runway moment so far?
Yeah, I do. I thought all the Raffia ’60s jetsetter tam-o-shanter caps at Burberry were my favorite–the finale.

Has anybody surprised you?
Yes, all the darkness of the season surprised me, most especially at Jil Sander, which was almost like shards of midnight.

Whats your take on the current state of menswear?
I think it’s more whimsical and frivolous than ever, both in the clothes I see people wearing and in the propositions the designers are making. The only way to get people to spend money over summer is to get them to think that they’re going to wear the clothes in the weekend or late at night.

What’s your personal wardrobe strategy for the week?
I normally wear skinny jeans and boots, expensive white shirts and designer jackets but today I’m actually wearing a suit, in homage to my favourite designer, Gianfranco Ferre, with some Armani, Saint Laurent and Paul Smith. I always wear some Gianfranco Ferre – for me the nearest thing to couture we’ve ever had in men’s fashion.

What’s your go-to drink in Milan?
Well I was hoping to get a Negroni here at Prada but where the hell is it? We’re forced to drink bloody Prosecco.

Mordechai S. Rubenstein, “I document men. I’m a docuMENtarian. I follow men around and see what they wear and how they wear it.”

What show are you most looking forward to?
The Woolrich Woolen Mills presentation. It’s only because I don’t have tickets to anything, I came here last minute. Yes I love Mark McNairy and I love Woolrich but I’m sure there’re other shows that I’d rather run to see but they’re family and they asked me to come so I’m excited to go.

What’s your take on the current state of men’s fashion?
Hashtag Oy. But I’m loving that the men are getting dressed up again. Absolutely loving it.

How do you define your own fashion week wardrobe strategy?
I brought this Levi’s coverall and I thought I’d wear it three days in a row and three different ways – unbutton the top, tie it around my waist, but I decided I didn’t have the corleones, whatever you call it, so at the last minute I threw a navy blazer on over it. I didn’t know I was coming to Milan until yesterday so my wardrobe is kinda… I’m trying to stay in the background, let’s put it that way.

What kind of shoes are those?
These are ghillie brogues from Sanders in England – they added a tongue to them, they’re made to be worn with a kilt.

What’s your go-to fashion week drink?
Aqua, no gas.

Francisco Cominelli, stylist, Vogue Hommes International

Has anyone surprised you this season?
Not yet.

What’s your take on the current state of men’s fashion?
I’m waiting for something to happen. I think that it’s going really well because people understand that even the men’s fashion is very important and I think this is an exciting time. I hope the same thing happens for magazines though because I think that they are boring right now and the young people are forgetting.

What’s your personal wardrobe strategy during fashion week?
Ooh la la! It was a big problem here in Milan because I didn’t have a lot to wear. I think it’s going to be a lot of prints and pajamas. Yeah – to be comfortable counts.

What are you wearing right now?
I’m wearing Diesel jeans, Prada shoes, a Levi’s shirt and a YSL jacket. All old season. Nothing is from this season.

What’s your go-to drink in Milan and Paris?
In summer it’s always the same – mojito.

Eugene Tong, senior style editor, Details

Has anybody surprised you this season so far?
Not really to be honest with you, I knew Burberry was going to be good and it lived up to my expectations, so the thing is for me in Milan, the people that I expect are going to be good have pretty much come through.

What’s your take on the current state of men’s fashion?
I think we’re in a really good spot right now. I think guys are finally appreciating and embracing fashion and really taking a genuine interest in it and it’s exciting. It’s no longer considered, you know, like a gay thing to be into fashion or things like that, I think that straight guys, even old guys are taking more care and I think that the way that things are going it’s more about dressing up and being a gentleman rather than trying to pretend you’ve just rolled out of bed which I think for a really long time especially for American men they were all about denim and tee shirts and hoodies so it’s nice to see people are really embracing that Italian gentleman suiting dressing style, it’s nice. Men’s fashion is going in a direction that I’m feeling right now.

So with that in mind, what’s your personal strategy for your wardrobe this week?
I’ve been doing this for a long time so I don’t really have a strategy anymore, I just put a bunch of things together – my style of dressing is not really that crazy, it’s more about classic pieces with pops of color or little things like that, a little flair, just little personalization type things but I mostly just put my favorite things in a suitcase and I sort it out every morning.

So what are you wearing right now?
I’m wearing a Supreme cap, a Supreme button-down, a Prada sweater, Rogan pants and a pair of Nikes that I’ve been obsessed with.

And what’s your go-to fashion week drink?
My go-to fashion week drink is my go-to drink in life in general, and that’s just scotch.

Isaac Hindin Miller is the founder of the leading style blog in New Zealand, IsaacLikes.com.

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