There is a reason that you’ve heard of otherwise devout vegetarians who will now and again indulge in the odd slab of bacon (or formerly strict vegans, like my colleague Jared Flint, who’ve fallen off the wagon altogether under the spell of swine). In an era when chefs have become demigods, complete with a coterie of foodie disciples, pork has become Satan’s new temptation—fattier than the original apple maybe, but still worth going to hell (or, at least the gym) for. And, like any sin, the other white meat has its gradations of decadence, with the bottom of the inferno (or barbecue) reserved for the exquisitely marbled heritage Berkshire piggies. Among the premiere purveyors of the best in Berkshire belly is Becker Lane Organic Farm in Iowa who raise the pigs served by Alice Waters at Berkeley’s Chez Panisse. And I’ll tell you what, if it is good enough for the high priestess of Farm-to-Table dining, it’s good enough for me. This 3lb lot on Gilt Taste, for the same price as a single entree in a NY restaurant, may demand some atonement, but the taste will certainly be heavenly.