Dispatches From Spring '12

#NYFW: The Definitive Gilt MAN Moments

From Missy's big reveal at Bastian to Araabmuzik at Ervell and the Ray-Ban's we'll all be copping, the MANual editors pick their highlights from this past week.

Tyler Thoreson
The cat eye-shaped (but not too cat eye-shaped) Ray-Bans at J.Crew. Just when you thought you knew every frame Ray-Ban has ever made, these appear out of nowhere. Gotta wonder what else is in that archive of theirs.

The feeling of utter discombobulation you felt—was there really a “Lee Gazarra”? Was that Ben’s first wife?—before realizing that the names in the Saul Bass inspired title sequences in the N.Hoolywood show were all a clever put on.

Geeking out over taped seams and shirting fabric-lined waists with Ariel and Shimon Ovadia at GQ‘s Bloomingdale’s event, then discovering the amazing photography of Ryan Holden Singer on my way out the door.

Finally realizing that, in addition to being one of the best men’s designers in New York, Michael Bastian just may be the best stylist anywhere. His comeback collection was a clinic on how men’s clothes should be presented.

The distressed-as-hell waxed cotton jacket at Duckie Brown. Yes, please.

Photo: Ryan Holden Singer

Josh Peskowitz
Sitting next to Chris Bosh at his first ever fashion show, General Idea. Oh, and the technical anoraks on the runway.

The Common Projects wedge-heeled, Algonquin-toed shoes for Robert Geller. The geometrically inclined beaded necklaces at Robert Geller. Everything else at Robert Geller

Araabmuzik at Patrik Ervell.

The crepe-soled penny loafers George Esquivel made for Fratelli Rossetti. In purple. In purple!

Michael Bastain starting his show with the opening bars of Kanye’s “All of the Lights” and then not playing Kanye’s “All of the Lights.” Speaking of Bastian, did y’all see that midnight slub cotton shawl lapeled suit? Man.

House shoes, slippers, camp moccasins, Air Max’s.

Barely a scrap of plaid… But lots of camo.

Billy’s shorts. You know which ones I’m talking about.

The burnt ends chilly sliders from Mexicue out front of Billy Reid on Fashion’s Night Out. You know which ones I’m talking about.

The boots at Alexandre Plokhov.

The Fashion Week diet: oysters and french fries.

Jared Flint
The entire NBA showing up for everything and making me look short.

A camera man at Richard Chai yelling to Dwyane Wade, “You ain’t welcome in New York!”

The return of Michael Bastian accompanied by a bare-chested Missy Rayder.

Nearly every designer conspiring to use Foster the People’s “Pumped Up Kicks” to drive us utterly insane. I call this the MGMT effect.

Patrik Ervell not using Foster the People anything and going with a grime/garage Araabmuzik soundtrack.

Orange, orange, orange, orange, orange, orange. Shorts, shorts, shorts, shorts, shorts. Shots, shots, shots, shots, shots.

Repurposing the J.Crew women’s collection for a man’s wardrobe. I call this the Kanye effect. And it’s dangerous territory.

Prison stripes and polka dots at Robert Geller.

The best dressed guy at NYFW is probably behind the camera: Tommy Ton.

Bastian’s Stubbs and Ervell’s Red Wings.

Russian editor Miroslava Duma was the best-dressed Russian freelancer at NYFW.

Color and pattern blocking at General Idea.

The ’90s hip-hop styling at Loden Dager by Andreas Kokkino. Including ample usage of Air Max ’90s.

That N.Hoolywood continues to indulge in ambitious conceptual collections. Also, including the soundtrack from Vertigo can only help a collection.

Nick Wooster
Michael Bastian—for me the show was one of the high points of the week.  Contrary to what WWD thought, I think Michael knows his guy and serves it up for him with complete style and panache. Best casting of the week.

The Ray-Ban sunglasses at the J.Crew men’s presentation. Tyler spotted them, but I have to say, for me, they are the coolest shades of the season. Can’t wait to buy a pair.

The beeswaxed canvas jacket at Duckie Brown. From the moment I saw this jacket, I knew that I had to have it. Upon further inspection in the showroom, I can tell you it fits like a glove, it’s the perfect transition weight jacket for spring and fall, and you will have it in your closet forever.

Hosting a dinner at Laut for some of the biggest names in menswear as a coda to Fashion’s Night Out. A special thanks to Michael Handley, Salill at Laut, Pisco Patrón, and the fine folks at Kiehl’s.

The Tumblr dinner hosted by me and Park & Bond. Good food, great conversation with some of the most influential bloggers on Tumblr, and an opportunity for me to use the word “f–ker” at dinner.

The two tone grey jacket at Bespoken… I want this jacket.

And my favorite part of NYFW: Friday, September 16th.

Jonathan Evans
Watching Basti(a)n hold court at Gant Rugger’s new Prince St. shop on FNO.

Grown man jock style. Of course there was another round of great varsity jackets (that mustard yellow Shipley & Halmos one? Yes.), but it looks like baseball jackets could end up at the top of the heap this spring.

The armbands at Bespoken. Gave the whole thing a “revolutionary European student group that just happens to be comprised exclusively of snappy dressers” kinda vibe. Also, that gray woolen Harrington.

Second Josh on those CP’s for Geller. (And Jared on Missy Rayder at Bastian.)

Speaking of Bastian: That heavily textured blue suit is amazing in its own right, but what about that plaid cutaway collar shirt underneath it? Damn.

The color at Loden Dager. Sure, it was on a flight suit, but that almost-burgundy burnt red is hard to argue with. As is that orange mac.

Stripes-on-stripes-on-leather sleeves at Simon Spurr.

The brown leather bomber at Patrik Ervell. So buttery I want to spread it on toast.

Lawrence Schlossman

Photo: Justin Chung

Missy Rayder’s intentional nip slip(s) at Bastian.

Dipset producer Araabmuzik soundtracking the Ervell show.

Tommy Ton’s matching Nepenthes animal print camo jacket and pants.

Bloggers blogging about bloggers blogging.

The female models used at Steven Alan.

Ed Westwick looking at Kellan Lutz, both nodding and then simultaneously taking their jackets off at Tommy Hilfiger. Even celebs sweat.

All the NBA players doing a pretty decent job of tricking the world into believing they actually care about clothes.

Theophilus London being the resident cool rapper guy at Fashion Week since ‘Ye is preoccupied overseas.

Watching Richard Haines people watch and sketch.

 

 

 

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